Equipped fibers and textile surface structures

ABSTRACT

Disclosed are special fibers and textile surface structures which are characterized by the fact that they are provided with mixtures of (a) microcapsuled agents and (b) binding agents.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

This invention relates generally to textiles and, more particularly, tonew finished fibers and textile fabrics with improved wearing comfort,to processes for their production and to the use of mixtures ofmicroencapsulated active components and binders for textile finishing.

PRIOR ART

The term “wearing comfort” encompasses inter alia increased expectationson the part of consumers who are no longer simply content for clothingworn next to the skin, such as lingerie or pantyhose for example, to becomfortable, i.e. not to irritate or redden the skin. On the contrary,consumers also expect such clothing to have a positive effect on thecondition of the skin either in both helping to overcome signs offatigue and imparting a fresh perfume or in avoiding roughness of theskin.

Accordingly, there has been no shortage of attempts to finish textilesand especially ladies' pantyhose—which appears to be a particularlyattractive consumer sector—with cosmetic active components which aretransferred to the skin during wear and produce the desired effectsthere. Now, it is quite natural that the desired effects are onlydeveloped when the corresponding active component is transferred fromthe wearer to the skin, i.e. no more active component is present on theitem of clothing after it has been worn for a more or less long time.This means that the manufacturer of such products has certainrequirements to meet when it comes to selecting the active componentsbecause—taking into account performance, the quantities that can beapplied and, not least, the costs involved—he has to find a compromisewhich leads to a product of which the effect can be experienced and forwhich the consumer is prepared to pay an increased price. Since cosmeticactive components with the desired effects are generally expensive andsince the finishing of the end products also involves additional costs,it is particularly important to the manufacturer that there is nounwanted loss of active components other than by contact between thefinished end product and the skin of the wearer, because this would meanthat the additional wearing comfort dearly paid for by the consumerwould be effective for a shorter time. A particularly unwanted form ofloss of active components occurs in the washing of the fibers andfabrics thus finished. Even though such losses cannot be completelyavoided, manufacturers of corresponding products are obviouslyparticularly concerned to apply the active components to the fibers insuch a way that they are not easily dissolved or mechanically removed.

Accordingly, instead of the impregnation processes often practised,where the active components are directly applied to the fibers ortextiles, the use of microencapsulated active components has grown insignificance in recent years. Behind it is the idea of accommodatingwater-soluble or water-dispersible active components in water-solublecapsules which release the active principles during wear either bycontrolled release through membrane pores or by mechanical destructionof the membranes. In this way, the losses occurring over the course ofmany washing cycles can actually be considerably reduced by comparisonwith the use of non-encapsulated active components. However, the resultsthus obtained overall have long been unsatisfactory, because theencapsulated active components are only loosely stored between the fiberfibrils and, hence, can easily be washed out during the washing process,for example by mechanical action.

Accordingly, the problem addressed by the present invention was toprovide fibers and fabrics finished with active components which wouldbe free from the disadvantages mentioned above, i.e. would display thefavorable properties over a large number of wash cycles withoutsignificant losses of active components occurring during washing.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to special fibers and textile fabricswhich are distinguished by the fact that they are finished with mixturesof

-   (a) microencapsulated active components and-   (b) binders.

It has surprisingly been found that the effect of finishing fibers andtextiles with a mixture of microencapsulated active components andbinders is that the microcapsules and hence the active components adheremore firmly to the fibers and, accordingly, are not dissolved or washedoff as quickly during the washing process as comparably finished endproducts where the microcapsules do not adhere directly to the fiberfibrils. As a result, finished fibers and textile fabrics are obtainedwhere the additional care effect in relation to conventional productscan be noticed for a longer period of time by the consumer both in thecase of permanent wear and after the same number of wash cycles.

Whereas commercially available skin care preparations contain on averageonly 2% by weight of active components, a particular advantage of thefibers and fabrics treated in accordance with the invention is that themicrocapsules applied have a very much higher active component contentof ca. 20 to 30% by weight.

Active Components

The choice of the active components is basically not critical anddepends solely on the particular effect to be achieved on the skin.Preferred active components have moisturizing properties, counteractcellulitis and/or are self-tanning. Typical examples are tocopherol,tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, carotenes, caffeine, ascorbicacid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and fragmentation products thereof,β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHAacids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, chitosan,dihydroxyactone, menthol, squalane, essential oils (for example jojobaoil), vegetable proteins and hydrolysis products thereof, plantextracts, such as for example prunus extract, bambara nut extract, andvitamin complexes. It is particularly preferred to use

-   -   squalane.    -   chitosan,    -   menthol,    -   retinol (vitamin A),    -   caffeine,    -   vegetable proteins and hydrolysis products thereof,    -   carotenes and    -   jojoba oil        because they    -   contribute towards the equilibrium of the cutaneous hydrolipid        layer,    -   prevent water loss and hence wrinkling,    -   freshen the skin and counteract signs of fatigue,    -   give the skin a soft and elastic feel,    -   improve dermal drainage, the supply of nutrients and the        circulation,    -   act against oxidative stress, environmental toxins, ageing of        the skin and free radicals,    -   compensate for the loss of fats caused by water and sun,    -   improve the water resistance of UV filters,    -   guarantee uniform tanning and, finally,    -   show antimicrobial properties.

The percentage content of active components in the microcapsules may bebetween 1 and 30% by weight and is preferably from 5 to 25% by weightand more particularly from 15 to 20% by weight.

Microcapsules

“Microcapsules” are understood by the expert to be spherical aggregateswith a diameter of about 0.0001 to about 5 mm which contain at least onesolid or liquid core surrounded by at least one continuous membrane.More precisely, they are finely dispersed liquid or solid phases coatedwith film-forming polymers, in the production of which the polymers aredeposited onto the material to be encapsulated after emulsification andcoacervation or interfacial polymerization. In another process, liquidactive substances are absorbed in a matrix (“microsponge”) which, asmicroparticles, may be additionally coated with film-forming polymers.The microscopically small capsules, also known as nanocapsules, can bedried in the same way as powders. Besides single-core microcapsules,there are also multiple-core aggregates, also known as microspheres,which contain two or more cores distributed in the continuous membranematerial. In addition, single-core or multiple-core microcapsules may besurrounded by an additional second, third etc. membrane. The membranemay consist of natural, semisynthetic or synthetic materials. Naturalmembrane materials are, for example, gum arabic, agar agar, agarose,maltodextrins, alginic acid and salts thereof, for example sodium orcalcium alginate, fats and fatty acids, cetyl alcohol, collagen,chitosan, lecithins, gelatin, albumin, shellac, polysaccharides, such asstarch or dextran, polypeptides, protein hydrolyzates, sucrose andwaxes. Semisynthetic membrane materials are inter alia chemicallymodified celluloses, more particularly cellulose esters and ethers, forexample cellulose acetate, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose,hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, and starchderivatives, more particularly starch ethers and esters. Syntheticmembrane materials are, for example, polymers, such as polyacrylates,polyamides, polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinyl pyrrolidone.

Examples of known microcapsules are the following commercial products(the membrane material is shown in brackets) Hallcrest Microcapsules(gelatin, gum arabic), Coletica Thalaspheres (maritime collagen),Lipotec Millicapseln (alginic acid, agar agar), Induchem Unispheres(lactose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose),Unicerin C30 (lactose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), Kobo Glycospheres (modified starch, fatty acid esters,phospholipids), Softspheres (modified agar agar), Kuhs ProbiolNanospheres (phospholipids), Primaspheres and Primasponges (chitosan,alginates) and Primasys (phospholipids).

Chitosan microcapsules and processes for their production are thesubject of earlier patent applications filed by applicants [WO 01/01926,WO 01/01927, WO 01/01928, WO 01/01929]. Microcapsules with meandiameters of 0.0001 to 5, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 and more particularly0.005 to 0.1 mm, which consist of a membrane and a matrix containing theactive components, may be obtained, for example, by

-   (a1) preparing a matrix from gel formers, chitosans and active    components,-   (a2) optionally dispersing the matrix in an oil phase and-   (a3) treating the optionally dispersed matrix with aqueous solutions    of anionic polymers and optionally removing the oil phase in the    process or-   (b1) preparing a matrix from gel formers, anionic polymers and    active components,-   (b2) optionally dispersing the matrix in an oil phase and-   (b3) treating the optionally dispersed matrix with aqueous chitosan    solutions and optionally removing the oil phase in the process or-   (c1) processing aqueous active-component preparations with oil    components in the presence of emulsifiers to form o/w emulsions,-   (c2) treating the emulsions thus obtained with aqueous solutions of    anionic polymers,-   (c3) contacting the matrix thus obtained with aqueous chitosan    solutions and-   (c4) removing the encapsulated products thus obtained from the    aqueous phase.    Gel Formers

Preferred gel formers for the purposes of the invention are substanceswhich are capable of forming gels in aqueous solution at temperaturesabove 40° C. Typical examples of such gel formers areheteropolysaccharides and proteins. Preferred thermogellingheteropoly-saccharides are agaroses which may be present in the form ofthe agar agar obtainable from red algae, even together with up to 30% byweight of non-gel-forming agaropectins. The principal constituent ofagaroses are linear polysaccharides of D-galactose and3,6-anhydro-L-galactose with alternate β-1,3- and β-1,4-glycosidicbonds. The heteropolysaccharides preferably have a molecular weight of110,000 to 160,000 and are both odorless and tasteless. Suitablealternatives are pectins, xanthans (including xanthan gum) and mixturesthereof. Other preferred types are those which—in 1% by weight aqueoussolution—still form gels that do not melt below 80° C. and solidifyagain above 40° C. Examples from the group of thermogelling proteins arethe various gelatins.

Chitosans

Chitosans are biopolymers which belong to the group of hydrocolloids.Chemically, they are partly deacetylated chitins differing in theirmolecular weights which contain the following—idealized—monomer unit:

In contrast to most hydrocolloids, which are negatively charged atbiological pH values, chitosans are cationic biopolymers under theseconditions. The positively charged chitosans are capable of interactingwith oppositely charged surfaces and are therefore used in cosmetichair-care and body-care products and pharmaceutical preparations.Chitosans are produced from chitin, preferably from the shell residuesof crustaceans which are available in large quantities as inexpensiveraw materials. In a process described for the first time by Hackmann etal., the chitin is normally first deproteinized by addition of bases,demineralized by addition of mineral acids and, finally, deacetylated byaddition of strong bases, the molecular weights being distributed over abroad spectrum. Preferred types are those which have an averagemolecular weight of 10,000 to 500,000 dalton or 800,000 to 1,200,000dalton and/or a Brookfield viscosity (1% by weight in glycolic acid)below 5,000 mPas, a degree of deacetylation of 80 to 88% and an ashcontent of less than 0.3% by weight. In the interests of bettersolubility in water, the chitosans are generally used in the form oftheir salts, preferably as glycolates.Oil Phase

Before formation of the membrane, the matrix may optionally be dispersedin an oil phase. Suitable oils for this purpose are, for example,Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols containing 6 to 18 andpreferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C₆₋₂₂ fatty acids withlinear C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of branched C₆₋₁₃ carboxylic acidswith linear C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohols such as, for example, myristylmyristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate,myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate,cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetylbehenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearylstearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearylerucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearylstearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearylbehenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleylstearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleylerucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenylisostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucylmyristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyloleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters oflinear C₆₋₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, more particularly2-ethyl hexanol, esters of hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear orbranched C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohols, more especially Dioctyl Malate, esters oflinear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (for examplepropylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and/or Guerbet alcohols,triglycerides based on C₆₋₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceridemixtures based on C₆₋₁₈ fatty acids, esters of C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcoholsand/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, moreparticularly benzoic acid, esters of C₂₋₁₂ dicarboxylic acids withlinear or branched alcohols containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyolscontaining 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetableoils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear andbranched C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters ofbenzoic acid with linear and/or branched C₆₋₂₂ alcohols (for exampleFinsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or nonsymmetrical dialkylethers containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring openingproducts of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oilsand/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, for example squalane,squalene or dialkyl cyclohexanes.

Anionic Polymers

The function of the anionic polymers is to form membranes with thechitosans. Preferred anionic polymers are salts of alginic acid. Thealginic acid is a mixture of carboxyl-containing polysaccharides withthe following idealized monomer unit:

The average molecular weight of the alginic acid or the alginates is inthe range from 150,000 to 250,000. Salts of alginic acid and completeand partial neutralization products thereof are understood in particularto be the alkali metal salts, preferably sodium alginate (“algin”), andthe ammonium and alkaline earth metal salts. Mixed alginates, forexample sodium/magnesium or sodium/calcium alginates, are particularlypreferred. In an alternative embodiment of the invention, however,anionic chitosan derivatives, for example carboxylation and above allsuccinylation products are also suitable for this purpose.Alternatively, poly(meth)acrylates with average molecular weights of5,000 to 50,000 dalton and the various carboxymethyl celluloses may alsobe used. Instead of the anionic polymers, anionic surfactants or lowmolecular weight inorganic salts, such as pyrophosphates for example,may also be used for forming the membrane.Emulsifiers

Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from atleast one of the following groups:

-   -   products of the addition of 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or 0        to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear C₈₋₂₂ fatty alcohols, C₁₂₂₂        fatty acids and alkyl phenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in        the alkyl group and alkylamines containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms        in the alkyl group;    -   alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides containing 8 to 22 carbon        atoms in the alkyl group and ethoxylated analogs thereof;    -   addition products of 1 to 15 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil        and/or hydrogenated castor oil;    -   addition products of 15 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil        and/or hydrogenated castor oil;    -   partial esters of glycerol and/or sorbitan with unsaturated,        linear or saturated, branched fatty acids containing 12 to 22        carbon atoms and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18        carbon atoms and addition products thereof with 1 to 30 mol        ethylene oxide;    -   partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of        self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight        400 to 5,000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar        alcohols (for example sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (for example        methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and        polyglucosides (for example cellulose) with saturated and/or        unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing 12 to 22        carbon atoms and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18        carbon atoms and addition products thereof with 1 to 30 mol        ethylene oxide;    -   mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and        fatty alcohol and/or mixed esters of fatty acids containing 6 to        22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol        or polyglycerol;    -   mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and/or        tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and salts thereof;    -   wool wax alcohols;    -   polysiloxane/polyalkyl/polyether copolymers and corresponding        derivatives;    -   block copolymers, for example Polyethyleneglycol-30        Dipolyhydroxy-stearate;    -   polymer emulsifiers, for example Pemulen types (TR-1), TR-2)        from Goodrich;    -   polyalkylene glycols and    -   glycerol carbonate.

Ethylene Oxide Addition Products

The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide ontofatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or onto castor oil are knowncommercially available products. They are homolog mixtures of which theaverage degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio between thequantities of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate withwhich the addition reaction is carried out. C_(12/18) fatty acidmonoesters and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide withglycerol are known as lipid layer enhancers for cosmetic formulations.

-   -   Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides

Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their production and their use areknown from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reactingglucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols containing 8 to 18carbon atoms. So far as the glucoside unit is concerned, bothmonoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar unit is attached to the fattyalcohol by a glycoside bond and oligomeric glycosides with a degree ofoligomerization of preferably up to about 8 are suitable. The degree ofoligomerization is a statistical mean value on which the homologdistribution typical of such technical products is based.

Partial Glycerides

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acidmonoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acidmonoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride,oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic aciddiglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride,linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acidmonoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride,tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric aciddiglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride andtechnical mixtures thereof which may still contain small quantities oftriglyceride from the production process. Addition products of 1 to 30and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide onto the partial glyceridesmentioned are also suitable.

Sorbitan Esters

Suitable sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitansesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate,sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitantrioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitandierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitansesquiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate,sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitandihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate,sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate,sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate,sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate,sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and technical mixtures thereof.Addition products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxideonto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.

Polyglycerol Esters

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl-2Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate(Lameform® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan® GI 34),Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate(Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450),Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate(Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane®NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and PolyglycerylPolyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403), Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate andmixtures thereof. Examples of other suitable polyolesters are the mono-,di- and triesters of trimethylol propane or pentaerythritol with lauricacid, cocofatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid,oleic acid, behenic acid and the like optionally reacted with 1 to 30mol ethylene oxide.

Anionic Emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids containing 12 to22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid, stearic acid orbehenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms,such as, for example, azelaic acid or sebacic acid.

Amphoteric and Cationic Emulsifiers

Other suitable emulsifiers are zwitterionic surfactants. Zwitterionicsurfactants are surface-active compounds which contain at least onequaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonategroup in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactantsare the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammoniumglycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate,N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for examplecocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines containing 8 to 18carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. The fatty acid amide derivativeknown under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularlypreferred. Ampholytic surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers.Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in additionto a C_(8/18) alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino groupand at least one —COOH— or —SO₃H— group in the molecule and which arecapable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable ampholyticsurfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids,N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids,N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acidscontaining around 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularlypreferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate,cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate and C_(12/18) acyl sarcosine.Finally, other suitable emulsifiers are cationic surfactants, those ofthe esterquat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acidtriethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Microcapsule Production Process

To produce the microcapsules, a 1 to 10 and preferably 2 to 5% by weightaqueous solution of the gel former, preferably agar agar, is normallyprepared and heated under reflux. A second aqueous solution containingthe chitosan in quantities of 0.1 to 2 and preferably 0.25 to 0.5% byweight and the active substances in quantities of 0.1 to 25 andpreferably 0.25 to 10% by weight is added in the boiling heat,preferably at 80 to 100° C.; this mixture is called the matrix.Accordingly, the charging of the microcapsules with active substancesmay also comprise 0.1 to 25% by weight, based on the weight of thecapsules. If desired, water-insoluble constituents, for exampleinorganic pigments, may be added at this stage to adjust viscosity,generally in the form of aqueous or aqueous/alcoholic dispersions. Inaddition, to emulsify or disperse the active substances, it can beuseful to add emulsifiers and/or solubilizers to the matrix. After itspreparation from gel former, chitosan and active substances, the matrixmay optionally be very finely dispersed in an oil phase with intensiveshearing in order to produce small particles in the subsequentencapsulation process. It has proved to be particularly advantageous inthis regard to heat the matrix to temperatures in the range from 40 to60° C. while the oil phase is cooled to 10 to 20° C. The actualencapsulation, i.e. formation of the membrane by contacting the chitosanin the matrix with the anionic polymers, takes place in the last, againcompulsory step. To this end, it is advisable to wash the matrixoptionally dispersed in the oil phase with an aqueous ca. 1 to 50 andpreferably 10 to 15% by weight aqueous solution of the anionic polymerand, if necessary, to remove the oil phase either at the same time orafterwards. The resulting aqueous preparations generally have amicrocapsule content of 1 to 10% by weight. In some cases, it can be ofadvantage for the solution of the polymers to contain other ingredients,for example emulsifiers or preservatives. After filtration,microcapsules with a mean diameter of preferably about 1 mm areobtained. It is advisable to sieve the capsules to ensure a uniform sizedistribution. The microcapsules thus obtained may have any shape withinproduction-related limits, but are preferably substantially spherical.Alternatively, the anionic polymers may also be used for the preparationof the matrix and encapsulation may be carried out with the chitosans.

An alternative process for the production of the microcapsules accordingto the invention comprises initially preparing an o/w emulsion which,besides the oil component, water and the active components, contains aneffective quantity of emulsifier. To form the matrix, a suitablequantity of an aqueous anionic polymer solution is added to thispreparation with vigorous stirring. The membrane is formed by additionof the chitosan solution. The entire process preferably takes place at amildly acidic pH of 3 to 4. If necessary, the pH is adjusted by additionof mineral acid. After formation of the membrane, the pH is increased toa value of 5 to 6, for example by addition of triethanolamine or anotherbase. This results in an increase in viscosity which can be supported byaddition of other thickeners such as, for example, polysaccharides, moreparticularly xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses,carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, relatively highmolecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids,polyacrylates, polyacrylamides and the like. Finally, the microcapsulesare separated from the aqueous phase, for example by decantation,filtration or centrifuging.

Binders

The binders suitable for use in accordance with the invention may beselected from the group consisting of

-   (b1) polymeric melamine compounds,-   (b2) polymeric glyoxal compounds,-   (b3) polymeric silicone compounds,-   (b4) epichlorohydrin-crosslinked polyamidoamines,-   (b5) poly(meth)acrylates,-   (b6) polyalkylene glycols and-   (b7) polymeric fluorocarbons.

Whereas binders (b1) to (b4) are preferably used for the production ofmicroencapsulated active component preparations with which the fibers ortextile fabrics are impregnated, binders (b5) to (b7) are preferred forpreparations applied by pressure application.

Polymeric Melamine Compounds

Melamine (synonym: 2,4,6-triamino-1,3,5-triazine) is normally formed bytrimerization of dicyanodiamide or by cyclization of urea withelimination of carbon dioxide and ammonia in accordance with thefollowing equation:

Melamines in the context of the invention are understood to beoligomeric or polymeric condensation products of melamine withformaldehyde, urea, phenol or mixtures thereof.

Polymeric Glyoxal Compounds

Glyoxal (synonym: oxaldehyde, ethanedial) is formed in the vapor-phaseoxidation of ethylene glycol with air in the presence of silvercatalysts. Glyoxals in the context of the present invention areunderstood to be the self-condensation products of glyoxal(“polyglyoxals”).

Polymeric Silicone Compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes,methylphenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-,alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and/oralkyl-modified silicone compounds which may be both liquid andresin-like at room temperature. Other suitable silicone compounds aresimethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chainlength of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates.

Epichlorohydrin-Crosslinked Polyamidoamines

Epichlorohydrin-crosslinked polyamidoamines, which are also known as“fibrabones” or “wet strength resins”, are sufficiently well-known fromtextile and paper technology. They are preferably produced by one of thefollowing two methods:

-   i) polyaminoamides are (a) initially reacted with a quantity of 5 to    30 mol-%, based on the nitrogen available for quaternization, of a    quaternizing agent and (b) the resulting quaternized polyaminoamides    are then crosslinked with a molar quantity of epichlorohydrin    corresponding to the content of non-quaternized nitrogen, or-   ii) polyaminoamides are (a) initially reacted at 10 to 35° C. with a    quantity of 5 to 40 mol-%, based on the nitrogen available for    crosslinking, of epichlorohydrin and (b) the intermediate product is    adjusted to a pH of 8 to 11 and crosslinked at 20 to 45° C. with    more epichlorohydrin so that the overall molar ratio is 90 to 125    mol-%, based on the nitrogen available for crosslinking.

Poly(meth)acrylates

Poly(meth)acrylates are understood to be homo- and copolymerizationproducts of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and optionally estersthereof, particularly with lower alcohols, such as for example methanol,ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, the isomeric butanols, cyclohexanol and thelike, which are obtained in known manner, for example by radicalpolymerization in UV light. The average molecular weight of the polymersis typically between 100 and 10,000, preferably between 200 and 5,000and more particularly between 400 and 2,000 dalton.

Polyalkylene Glycols

Polyalkylene glycols are homo- and copolymerization products ofethylene, propylene and optionally butylene oxide. The condensation ofthe alkylene oxides may be carried out in known manner in the presenceof alkaline catalysts although acidic catalysis is preferred. Ifmixtures of ethylene and propylene oxide, for example, are used, thepolymers may have a block or random distribution. The average molecularweight of the polymers is typically between 100 and 10,000, preferablybetween 200 and 5,000 and more particularly between 400 and 2,000dalton.

Quantities Used

The ratio of microcapsules to binder may be from 90:10 to 10:90 and ispreferably from 75:25 to 25:75 and more particularly from 60:40 to 40:60parts by weight. Different forms of adhesion can be achieved accordingto the production process and the microcapsule-to-binder ratio. Where asmaller quantity of binder is used (for example, ratio by weight ofmicrocapsules to binder >50:50), the microcapsules adhere to the fibrilsin a single layer of binder, so that there is direct contact between themembrane and the surface of the skin during wear. It is clear that, withthis form of adhesion (“carrier type”), the active component is releasedvery quickly through mechanical friction. If, on the other hand, alarger quantity of binder is used (for example, ratio by weight ofmicrocapsules to binder <50:50), it is generally sufficient not only tobind the microcapsules to the fibers, but also to envelop them orprovide them with a coating (“igloo type”). Microcapsules ofcorrespondingly finished fibers are not in direct contact with the skinsurface during wear so that, although they are released in smallerquantities, they are active for a longer time (cf. FIGS. 1 and 2). Thepreparations are generally marketed in the form of aqueous dispersionswith a solids content of 5 to 50, preferably 10 to 40 and moreparticularly 15 to 30% by weight.

Commercial Applications

The preparations of microencapsulated active components and binders areused for finishing fibers and all kinds of textile fabrics, i.e. bothend products and semifinished products, during or even after theproduction process in order thus to improve wearing comfort on the skin.The choice of the materials of which the fibers or textiles consist isvery largely uncritical. Suitable materials are any standard natural andsynthetic materials and blends thereof, but especially cotton,polyamides, polyesters, viscose, polyamide/Lycra, cotton/Lycra andcotton/polyester. The choice of the textile is equally uncritical,although it is logical to finish products which are in direct contactwith the skin, i.e. in particular underwear, swimwear, nightwear, hoseand pantyhose.

Application Processes

The present invention also relates to a first process for finishingfibers or textile fabrics, in which the substrates are impregnated withaqueous preparations containing the microencapsulated active componentsand the binders. Impregnation may be carried out, for example, bytreating the fibers or textiles with the preparations according to theinvention in a commercially available washing machine or by applying thepreparations using an immersion bath.

Alternatively, the present invention also relates to a second processfor finishing fibers and textile materials in which the aqueouspreparations containing the microencapsulated active components and thebinders are applied by pressure application. In this process, thefibers/fabrics to be treated are drawn through an immersion bathcontaining the microencapsulated active components and the binders, thepreparations being applied under pressure in a press.

The concentration used is normally from 1 to 90% by weight andpreferably from 5 to 60% by weight, based on the liquor or the immersionbath. Impregnation generally requires higher concentrations thanpressure application to charge the fibers or textile fabrics with thesame amounts of microencapsulated active components.

Finally, the present invention relates to the use of mixtures containing

-   (a) microencapsulated active components and-   (b) binders    for finishing fibers and textile fabrics.

EXAMPLES Production Example H1

In a 500 ml three-necked flask equipped with a stirrer and refluxcondenser, 3 g agar agar were dissolved in 200 ml water in boiling heat.First a homogeneous dispersion of 10 g glycerol and 2 g talcum in ad 100g water and then a preparation of 25 g chitosan (Hydagen® DCMF, 1% byweight in glycolic acid, Cognis, Düsseldorf/FRG), 5 g squalane, 0.5 gPhenonip® (preservative mixture containing phenoxyethanol and parabens)and 0.5 g Polysorbate-20 (Tween® 20, ICI) in ad 100 g water were addedto the mixture over a period of about 30 mins. with vigorous stirring.The matrix obtained was filtered, heated to 60° C. and added dropwise toa 0.5% by weight sodium alginate solution. An aqueous preparationcontaining 8% by weight microcapsules with a mean diameter of 1 mm wasobtained after sieving. Finally, the microcapsules—based on their solidscontent—were mixed with polyethylene glycol (M=5,000) in a ratio byweight of 40:60.

Production Example H2

In a 500 ml three-necked flask equipped with a stirrer and refluxcondenser, 3 g of agar agar were dissolved in 200 ml water in boilingheat. First a homogeneous dispersion of 10 g glycerol and 2 g talcum inad 100 g water and then a preparation of 25 g chitosan (Hydagen® DCMF,1% by weight in glycolic acid, Cognis, Düsseldorf/FRG), 5 g tocopherol,0.5 g Phenonip® (preservative mixture containing phenoxyethanol andparabens) and 0.5 g Polysorbate-20 (Tween® 20, ICI) in ad 100 g waterwere added to the mixture over a period of about 30 mins. with vigorousstirring. The matrix obtained was filtered, heated to 50° C. anddispersed with vigorous stirring in 2.5 times its volume of paraffin oilcooled beforehand to 15° C. The dispersion was then washed with anaqueous solution containing 1% by weight sodium lauryl sulfate and 0.5%by weight sodium alginate and then repeatedly with a 0.5% by weightaqueous Phenonip solution, the oil phase being removed in the process.An aqueous preparation containing 8% by weight microcapsules with a meandiameter of 1 mm was obtained after sieving. Finally, themicrocapsules—based on their solids content—were mixed withpolymethacrylate (M=8,000) in a ratio by weight of 50:50.

Production Example H3

In a 500 ml three-necked flask equipped with a stirrer and refluxcondenser, 3 g agar agar were dissolved in 200 ml water in boiling heat.First a homogeneous dispersion of 10 g glycerol and 2 g talcum in ad 100g water and then a preparation of 25 g chitosan (Hydagen® DCMF, 1% byweight in glycolic acid, Cognis, Düsseldorf/FRG), 5 g caffeine, 0.5 gPhenonip® (preservative mixture containing phenoxyethanol and parabens)and 0.5 g Polysorbate-20 (Tween® 20, ICI) in ad 100 g water were addedto the mixture over a period of about 30 mins. with vigorous stirring.The matrix obtained was filtered, heated to 60° C. and added dropwise toa 15% by weight solution of Sodium Laureth Sulfate. An aqueouspreparation containing 9% by weight microcapsules with a mean diameterof 1 mm was obtained after sieving. Finally, the microcapsules—based ontheir solids content—were mixed with a melamine/formaldehyde condensate(M=8,000) in a ratio by weight of 50:50.

Production Example H4

In a 500 ml three-necked flask equipped with a stirrer and refluxcondenser, 3 g agar agar were dissolved in 200 ml water in boiling heat.First a homogeneous dispersion of 10 g glycerol and 2 g talcum in ad 100g water and then a preparation of 25 g chitosan (Hydagen® DCMF, 1% byweight in glycolic acid, Cognis, Düsseldorf/FRG), 5 g menthol, 0.5 gPhenonip® (preservative mixture containing phenoxyethanol and parabens)and 0.5 g Polysorbate-20 (Tween® 20, ICI) in ad 100 g water were addedto the mixture over a period of about 30 mins. with vigorous stirring.The matrix obtained was filtered, heated to 60° C. and added dropwise toa 15% by weight solution of sodium pyrophosphate. An aqueous preparationcontaining 8% by weight microcapsules with a mean diameter of 1 mm wasobtained after sieving. Finally, the microcapsules—based on their solidscontent—were mixed with polyethylene glycol (M=5,000) in a ratio byweight of 70:30.

Production Example H5

In a 500 ml three-necked flask equipped with a stirrer and refluxcondenser, 3 g of agar agar were dissolved in 200 ml water in boilingheat. First a homogeneous dispersion of 10 g glycerol and 2 g talcum inad 100 g water and then a preparation of 25 g chitosan (Hydagen® DCMF,1% by weight in glycolic acid, Cognis, Düsseldorf/FRG), 5 g β-carotene,0.5 g Phenonip® (preservative mixture containing phenoxyethanol andparabens) and 0.5 g Polysorbate-20 (Tween® 20, ICI) in ad 100 g waterwere added to the mixture over a period of about 30 mins. with vigorousstirring. The matrix obtained was filtered, heated to 50° C. anddispersed with vigorous stirring in 2.5 times its volume of paraffin oilcooled beforehand to 15° C. The dispersion was then washed with a 15% byweight sodium pyrophosphate solution and then repeatedly with a 0.5% byweight aqueous Phenonip solution, the oil phase being removed in theprocess. An aqueous preparation containing 10% by weight microcapsuleswith a mean diameter of 1 mm was obtained after sieving. Finally, themicrocapsules—based on their solids content—were mixed with polyethyleneglycol (M=5,000) in a ratio by weight of 70:30.

Production Example H6

In a 500 ml three-necked flask equipped with a stirrer and refluxcondenser, 3 g gelatin were dissolved in 200 ml water in boiling heat.First a homogeneous dispersion of 10 g glycerol and 2 g talcum in ad 100g water and then a preparation of 25 g chitosan (Hydagen® DCMF, 1% byweight in glycolic acid, Cognis, Düsseldorf/FRG), 5 g soy protein and0.5 g Phenonip® in ad 100 g water were added to the mixture over aperiod of about 30 mins. with vigorous stirring. The matrix obtained wasfiltered, heated to 60° C. and added dropwise to a 0.5% by weightsolution of Hydagen® SCD (succinylated chitosan, Cognis). An aqueouspreparation containing 8% by weight microcapsules with a mean diameterof 1 mm was obtained after sieving. Finally, the microcapsules—based ontheir solids content—were mixed with polyethylene glycol (M=5,000) in aratio by weight of 70:30.

Production Example H7

In a 500 ml three-necked flask equipped with a stirrer and refluxcondenser, 3 g agar agar were dissolved in 200 ml water in boiling heat.First a homogeneous dispersion of 10 g glycerol and 2 g talcum in ad 100g water and then a preparation of 25 g chitosan (Hydagen® DCMF, 1% byweight in glycolic acid, Cognis, Düsseldorf/FRG), 5 g jojoba oil, 0.5 gPhenonip® (preservative mixture containing phenoxyethanol and parabens)and 0.5 g Polysorbate-20 (Tween® 20, ICI) in ad 100 g water were addedto the mixture over a period of about 30 mins. with vigorous stirring.The matrix obtained was filtered, heated to 60° C. and added dropwise toa 0.5% by weight sodium alginate solution. To obtain microcapsules ofthe same diameter, the preparations were then sieved. Finally, themicrocapsules—based on their solids content—were mixed with polyethyleneglycol (M=5,000) in a ratio by weight of 70:30.

Production Example H8

In a stirred apparatus, 0.5 g preservative (Phenonip®) was dissolved in50 g of a 2% by weight aqueous preparation of carboxymethyl celluloseand the mixture was adjusted to pH 3.5. A mixture consisting of 1 gtocopherol and 0.5 g sorbitan monostearate+20EO (Eumulgin® SMS 20,Cognis Deutschland GmbH) was then added with vigorous stirring. A 1% byweight solution of chitosan in glycolic acid (Hydagen® CMF, CognisDeutschland GmbH) was then added with continued stirring in such aquantity that a chitosan concentration of 0.075% by weight—based on thepreparation—was established. The pH was then raised to 5.5 by additionof triethanolamine and the microcapsules formed were decanted. Finally,the microcapsules—based on their solids content—were mixed withpolyethylene glycol (M=5,000) in a ratio by weight of 40:60.

Production Example H9

In a stirred apparatus, 0.5 g preservative (Phenonip®) was dissolved in50 g of a 2% by weight aqueous preparation of polyacrylic acid (Pemulen®TR-2), a pH of 3 being established. A mixture consisting of 1 g mentholand 0.5 g sorbitan monolaurate+15EO (Eumulgin® SML 15, CognisDeutschland GmbH) was then added with vigorous stirring. A 1% by weightsolution of chitosan in glycolic acid (Hydagen® CMF, Cognis DeutschlandGmbH) was then added with continued stirring in such a quantity that achitosan concentration of 0.01% by weight—based on the preparation—wasestablished. The pH was then raised to 5.5 by addition oftriethanolamine and the microcapsules formed were decanted. Finally, themicrocapsules—based on their solids content—were mixed with polyethyleneglycol (M=5,000) in a ratio by weight of 40:60.

Production Example H10

In a stirred apparatus, 0.5 g preservative (Phenonip®) was dissolved in50 g of a 2% by weight aqueous preparation of polyacrylic acid (Pemulen®TR-2), a pH of 3 being established. A mixture consisting of 1 g caffeineand 0.5 g Coco Glucosides (Plantacare® APG 1200, Cognis DeutschlandGmbH) was then added with vigorous stirring. A 1% by weight solution ofchitosan in glycolic acid (Hydagen® CMF, Cognis Deutschland GmbH) wasthen added with continued stirring in such a quantity that a chitosanconcentration of 0.01% by weight—based on the preparation—wasestablished. The pH was then raised to 5.5 by addition oftriethanolamine and the microcapsules formed were decanted. Finally, themicrocapsules—based on their solids content—were mixed with polyethyleneglycol (M=5,000) in a ratio by weight of 40:60.

Application Example 1

Commercially available pantyhose were finished with the microcapsulepreparation of Production Example H8 by pressure application and testedfor 8 to 48 h by a panel of 30 volunteers. The residual active componentcontent was determined at 8 h intervals. For comparison, the tests wererepeated with pantyhose which had been finished with the samemicrocapsules, but without the added binder. The results are set out inTable 1 and represent the respective mean values. TABLE 1 Residualactive component content as a function of wearing time Wearing time [d]0 8 16 24 32 40 48 Active component content [%-rel] Example H8 100 90 8278 72 62 62 Comparison, no binder 100 80 71 59 40 32 18

It can be seen that the effect of finishing with mixtures ofmicrocapsules and binder is that the active component is released lessquickly.

Application Example 2

Commercially available pantyhose were finished with the microcapsulepreparation of Production Example H8 by pressure application and washed30 times (a) in a washing machine (30 mins., 20° C., 1 g/l light-dutydetergent) and (b) by hand (15 mins., 20° C., 1 g/l light-dutydetergent). The residual active component content after each wash cyclewas determined. For comparison, the tests were repeated with pantyhosewhich had been finished with the same microcapsules, but without theadded binder. The results are set out in Table 2. TABLE 2 Residualactive component content as a function of the wash cycles Wash cycles 01 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 15 20 25 30 Active component content [%-rel],machine washing Example H8 100 70 58 50 42 40 38 37 33 30 28 22 20 18 16Comparison, 100 60 39 21 5 0 no binder Active component content [%-rel],hand washing Example H8 100 90 88 82 78 76 74 72 71 70 69 52 45 42 41Comparison, no 100 81 66 51 32 12 3 0 binder

It can be seen that the effect of finishing with mixtures ofmicrocapsules and binders is that the active component is washed outless quickly both in machine and in hand washing.

Application Example 3

Commercially available pantyhose were finished with the microcapsulepreparation of Production Example H10 by pressure application and testedfor 6 h by a panel of 10 volunteers. The hydration of the skin inrelation to the untreated condition was then determined with aCorneometer 805 PC. For comparison, the tests were repeated withpantyhose which had been finished with the same microcapsules, butwithout the added binder. The results are set out in Table 3. TABLE 3Increase in hydration Volunteer 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 MW Increase inhydration [%-rel] Example H10 6 14 4 16 14 7 9 7 9 13 10 Comparison, 512 7 8 11 11 4 5 7 10 8 no binder

It can be seen that, on average, a higher degree of hydration wasachieved in the case of Example H10 according to the invention.

1-13. (canceled)
 14. A substrate comprising fibers or textile fabrics,finished with a mixture comprising: (1) microcapsules comprising amembrane and a matrix containing active components, prepared by aprocess selected from the group consisting of (a) which comprises thesteps: (a1) preparing a matrix from gel formers, chitosans and activecomponents, (a2) optionally dispersing the matrix in an oil phase and(a3) treating the optionally dispersed matrix with aqueous solutions ofanionic polymers and optionally removing the oil phase in the process,(b) which comprises the steps: (b1) preparing a matrix from gel formers,anionic polymers and active components, (b2) optionally dispersing thematrix in an oil phase and (b3) treating the optionally dispersed matrixwith aqueous chitosan solutions and optionally removing the oil phase inthe process, and (c) which comprises the steps: (c1) processing aqueousactive-component preparations with oil components in the presence ofemulsifiers to form o/w emulsions, (c2) treating the emulsions thusobtained with aqueous solutions of anionic polymers, (c3) contacting thematrix thus obtained with aqueous chitosan solutions and (c4) removingthe encapsulated products thus obtained from the aqueous phase; and (2)binders.
 15. The fibers and textile fabrics as claimed in claim 14,wherein, the microencapsulated active components comprise membersselected from the group consisting of tocopherol, tocopherol acetate,tocopherol palmitate, carotenes, caffeine, ascorbic acid,(deoxy)ribonucleic acid, fragmentation products of (deoxy)ribonucleicacid, β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol,AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, chitosan,dihydroxyactone, menthol, squalane, essential oils, vegetable proteins,hydrolysis products of vegetable proteins, plant extracts and mixturesthereof.
 16. The fibers and textile fabrics as claimed in claim 14,wherein, the microcapsules have an active component content of 1 to 30%by weight.
 17. The fibers and textile fabrics as claimed in claim 14,finished with microcapsules with a mean diameter of from 0.0001 to 5 mm.18. The fibers and textile fabrics as claimed in claim 14, wherein, thebinder comprises a member selected from the group consisting ofpolymeric melamine compounds, polymeric glyoxal compounds, polymericsilicone compounds, epichlorohydrin-crosslinked polyamidoamines,polyalkylene glycols, poly(meth)acrylates, polymeric fluorocarbons andmixtures thereof.
 19. The fibers and textile fabrics as claimed in claim14, wherein, the mixture of microencapsulated active component andbinders are present in a ratio by weight of microencapsulated activecomponents to binders of from 90:10 to 10:90.
 20. A process forfinishing fibers or textile fabric substrates, wherein, the substratesare impregnated with an aqueous preparation comprising microencapsulatedactive components and binders of claim
 14. 21. The process of claim 20,wherein, the substrates are impregnated with the aqueous preparationscontaining the microencapsulated active components and the binders byforced application.
 22. The process as claimed in claim 20, wherein themicroencapsulated active components and the binders comprise aqueousdispersions.
 23. The process as claimed in claim 22, wherein, theaqueous dispersion has solids content of 5 to 90% by weight.
 24. Theprocess as claimed in claim 23, wherein, the aqueous dispersion isdiluted to a concentration of solids of 1 to 60% by weight.
 25. Aprocess for finishing a substrate containing fibers or textile fabricswhich comprises: (1) contacting the substrate with a mixture comprisingmicrocapsules comprising a membrane and a matrix containing activecomponents prepared by a process selected from the group consisting of(a) which comprises the steps: (a1) preparing a matrix from gel formers,chitosans and active components, (a2) optionally dispersing the matrixin an oil phase and (a3) treating the optionally dispersed matrix withaqueous solutions of anionic polymers and optionally removing the oilphase in the process, (b) which comprises the steps: (b1) preparing amatrix from gel formers, anionic polymers and active components, (b2)optionally dispersing the matrix in an oil phase and 3) treating theoptionally dispersed matrix with aqueous chitosan solutions andoptionally removing the oil phase in the process, and (c) whichcomprises the steps: (c1) processing aqueous active-componentpreparations with oil components in the presence of emulsifiers to formo/w emulsions, (c2) treating the emulsions thus obtained with aqueoussolutions of anionic polymers, (c3) contacting the matrix thus obtainedwith aqueous chitosan solutions and (c4) removing the encapsulatedproducts thus obtained from the aqueous phase; and (2) binders.
 26. Thefiber and textile fabric of claim 15, wherein, the microcapsules have anactive component content of from 1% to 30% by weight.
 27. The fiber andtextile fabric of claim 15, finished with microcapsules with a meandiameter of from 0.0001 to 5 mm.
 28. The fiber and textile fabric ofclaim 16, finished with microcapsules with a mean diameter of from0.0001 to 5 mm.
 29. The fiber and textile fabric of claim 15, wherein,the binder comprises a member selected from the group consisting ofpolymeric melamine compounds, polymeric glyoxal compounds, polymericsilicone compounds, epichlorohydrin-crosslinked polyamidoamines,polyalkylene glycols, poly(meth)acrylates, polymeric fluorocarbons andmixtures thereof.
 30. The fiber and textile fabric of claim 16, wherein,the binder comprises a member selected from the group consisting ofpolymeric melamine compounds, polymeric glyoxal compounds, polymericsilicone compounds, epichlorohydrin-crosslinked polyamidoamines,polyalkylene glycols, poly(meth)acrylates, polymeric fluorocarbons andmixtures thereof.
 31. The fiber and textile fabrics of claim 17,wherein, the binder comprises a member selected from the groupconsisting of polymeric melamine compounds, polymeric glyoxal compounds,polymeric silicone compounds, epichlorohydrin-crosslinkedpolyamidoamines, polyalkylene glycols, poly(meth)acrylates, polymericfluorocarbons and mixtures thereof.
 32. The fiber and textile fabrics ofclaim 15, wherein, the mixture of microencapsulated active component andbinders are present in a ratio by weight of microencapsulated activecomponents to binders of from 90:10 to 10:90.
 33. The fiber and textilefabrics of claim 16, wherein, the mixture of microencapsulated activecomponent and binders are present in a ratio by weight ofmicroencapsulated active components to binders of from 90:10 to 10:90.34. The fiber and textile fabrics of claim 17, wherein, the mixture ofmicroencapsulated active component and binders are present in a ratio byweight of microencapsulated active components to binders of from 90:10to 10:90.
 35. The fiber and textile fabrics of claim 18 wherein, themixture of microencapsulated active component and binders are present ina ratio by weight of microencapsulated active components to binders offrom 90:10 to 10:90.